Steam Trains and Chalk Streams. A ‘Watercress Line’ Inspired Wander.

I’ve never been a big fan of using the word ‘journey’ as a metaphor, despite its connotations with travelling a personal path of discovery. It therefore felt fitting today to embark on an actual physical journey while being given the chance to catch up with an old friend. Indeed, what better way was there to continue embracing my encroaching levels of middle-aged madness than taking a ride on a steam train?

As I quietly left the house, a bright but chilly Spring morning was a welcome sight. No dog with me today, and her sorrowful look of hurt and betrayal when I didn’t pick up the lead offered a momentary pang of guilt. It was one of those days when you dress for the immediate temperature, knowing full well that you’ll be ruing the jeans and shirt combo later on. With the radio on and a near-empty A303 at my mercy, I made light work of the trip to Alton in Hampshire. Passing Stonehenge along the way, I was reminded of how painfully uninspiring it is to behold. The fact that a significant arterial carriageway passes in touching distance doesn’t help, of course. The tunnel plans have been in existence for many years now, without fruition. With it, the whole site would be instantly transformed, removing the rubbernecking crawl of vehicles, and allowing the stones to sit engulfed amongst the sweeping Wiltshire landscape.

My arrival in Alton was matched with near-perfect timing by my friend. A customary handshake and man hug were then met with a look around his new car. I begrudgingly accepted that it probably did offer a more satisfying driving experience than my brown Astra. However, it was agreed that I would not hold it against him or let it tarnish the day out. With that all sorted, we strolled towards the station.

The Watercress Line

Now I am happy to admit that I love a bit of nostalgia. The opportunity to immerse myself in ‘Yesteryear’, as well as appreciate all that was and how things used to be, is genuinely heart-warming. The world we live in now, where time appears more precious than ever, often acts to increase society’s stress levels as we race to meet increasingly unachievable deadlines. Patience is not necessarily held as a virtue these days. In fact, it is probably viewed by some as being unproductive. Therefore, as the train gracefully made its appearance at the platform, an escape from the norm, albeit temporary, was gratefully received.

‘The Watercress Line’ runs for 10 miles between Alton and New Arlesford. Purchased from British Railways in 1975, it was fully operational across the entire stretch of track from 1985. Run mainly by dedicated volunteers, it provides a window into the way we used to live. It would be easy to use up much of this post charting more of the railway’s history and attraction. However, I will leave those gaps for others to fill with their own curiosity. What I would say, though, is that it is so reassuring to see that such integral parts of our heritage are still lovingly cherished. The attention to detail can’t help but raise a smile.

Stepping aboard, I’m hit by sensory deja vu. From the unforgettable sounds of the slam doors to the sights and smells of the unmistakable interior. I may have been brought up after steam, but the carriages take me straight back to a time when my Nan would take me on days out to see the Beefeaters at The Tower of London, or the elephants at London Zoo.

The train steadily made its way through the gentle countryside, allowing the two of us to talk. The act of opening up and admitting that you’ve not been functioning very well isn’t easy. So, having the right people there at the right times is always handy. Acquaintances come and go in life, but friends are an extended family that we get to choose. The next thirty minutes provided the opportunity for my friend to show a quality that all of us should utilise. That is the ability to be an active listener. Not just hearing the words spoken, but being able to concentrate on the speaker and respond in a thoughtful way that offers no judgment. It is a skill that shows humility, and I was quietly appreciative of the reassuring kindness that was on offer.

Alighting in New Arlesford, it becomes immediately apparent why the steam train is such a suitable way to arrive. We are greeted by a bustling and striking Georgian market town, with its broad street parking and colour-washed houses providing a visual spectacle that is as welcome as it is unexpected. A couple of hostelries and cafes are noted for future reference, and we allow our legs to carry us down towards the start of our walk.

One of my key aims for today’s wander was to enjoy the beauty of being beside a chalk stream. There are only around 200 chalk rivers globally, with over 85% of them being located across southern and eastern England. In my book, that fits firmly into the quintessentially English category. The River Arle is a tributary of its more significant cousin, the Itchen, and would be both our start and end point. The stream has been rightfully embraced here, with a well-marked trail leading us to the riverbank. The following mile proves truly stunning. Crystal clear waters wash over gravel beds, nourishing the flora that sways rhythmically with the flow. The clarity is beyond comprehension, offering no reflection in the bright sunshine, instead opening a window into the life below the surface. We stand and stare, taking it all in, whilst the sizeable trout ferry glide against the current and the swans watch over their territory. I imagine that this scene has now become a staple vision of many an Instagram post. However, when greeted by sights like this, the mind can block out all around, allowing you to simply be in the moment.

As the path narrows and begins to take us up and away from the river, we are treated to broad views of the surrounding countryside and watercress meadows below. Seeing first hand how this nutrient rich plant grows certainly demonstrates why it a dubbed a super food, as well as shows how intrinsically important it is to the whole area. The well-marked footpaths allow conversation to develop organically and permit future plans to be made. It is often easy to find things to talk about when you’re walking and not sitting face to face. Be it sport, cars, food, holidays, or sound investment advice, the miles tick along whilst also taking time to stop and admire the scenery. That is the beauty of removing the pressure from physical activity. For many years, I have gauged success by distance, pace, time improvements and challenge. If it didn’t result in some form of suffer-fest, it might have felt disappointing. Whereas I do think there is always a place for pushing myself, I have also become more open to the benefits of slowing down and not having to perform to gain satisfaction. The reality is that it is only pressure that I have placed upon myself.

Once leaving the river, we barely saw another soul on a circular route that meandered peacefully through tree-lined passages that were itching to burst into life. A piece of indulgent solitude for sure. Having dropped down to the valley floor, our final stretch took us back towards the charming town of New Arlesford. Blessed with thatched cottages and a real sense of character, it proved a perfect place to end our six mile route.

With our train ride home another ninety minutes away, a pub garden and a good feed were much appreciated, before heading back to the station. Finding a seat, we sit and both look quite pleased with ourselves for a day well executed. A shrill whistle indicated that we were good to go, and the train slowly began to pull away from the platform. I was half expecting to see a mildly agitated Poirot (Suchet) shuffling down the carriage, or maybe Miss Marple (Hickson) looking wistfully out of the window, as she made her way home having ruined the day of a murderous vicar. I know this is probably a step too far, but also an acknowledgement of a youth spent watching Sunday night TV with my parents, when there were only four channels to choose from.

Today was as much about friendship as it was wandering. The train, scenery, and walk acting to provide a simple vessel in which to talk and engage. A timely reminder that keeping in touch, reaching out and making an effort is always worth it. You never know when it might be needed.

One Comment

  1. My niece has moved to Liphook down the road from Alton so somewhere to go when I visit her.

    What a wonderful gift of listening your friend gave you. When we start to share we discover we’re not alone on this meander through life. The ups, downs, detours and dead ends all contribute to making sense of who we are and in what situations we are our best version of ourselves. It’s often the tough times that we learn the most. Discovering the values that are important to us. Keep opening up and learning xx

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